Drip Edge Installation Code in Georgia

Georgia's Drip Edge Requirement Under the 2024 IRC

IRC Section R905.2.8.5 makes drip edge mandatory on every asphalt shingle roof in Georgia. The code states: "Drip edge shall be provided at eaves and rakes of shingle roofs." No exceptions. No alternate compliance path. If you install asphalt shingles on a residential roof in this state, you install drip edge.

Georgia adopts the International Residential Code through the Georgia Department of Community Affairs (DCA), with state-specific amendments. The drip edge requirement first appeared in the 2012 IRC cycle and has carried forward through every subsequent edition, including the 2024 code. Before 2012, drip edge was a manufacturer recommendation and a best practice. The code change elevated it to a legal requirement, backed by inspection enforcement.

The practical effect is straightforward. Every roof replacement and every new construction project in metro Atlanta must include drip edge at both the eave (the horizontal lower edge of the roof) and the rake (the sloped side edge). Building inspectors in Alpharetta, Buckhead, Sandy Springs, Johns Creek, Roswell, and Marietta check for drip edge during final inspections. A roof without it fails.

The requirement applies to reroofing projects as well. If your existing roof lacks drip edge and you are installing new shingles, the contractor must add drip edge to bring the installation into compliance with current code. This catches homeowners off guard because their original roof may have passed inspection under an older code edition that did not mandate drip edge. The current code does, and the new installation must comply.

Local jurisdictions in Georgia can adopt amendments that exceed the state minimum, but none have weakened or removed the drip edge requirement. Gwinnett County, Fulton County, DeKalb County, and Cobb County all enforce R905.2.8.5 as written. Our team at 1 Source Roofing pulls permits and works with building departments across all four counties. We know the inspection expectations because we navigate them on every project.

For the broader context of Georgia's residential roofing code framework, including how the state adopts the IRC and how local enforcement works, see our Georgia residential roofing code guide.

What Is Drip Edge and Why the Code Requires It

Drip edge is an L-shaped or T-shaped metal flashing strip installed along the perimeter of a roof. It extends beyond the edge of the roof deck and directs water runoff into the gutter or away from the fascia board. Without it, water follows the underside of the shingle edge through capillary action, wicks behind the fascia, and saturates the roof deck edge, the soffit, and the wall framing below.

The code writers added the drip edge mandate because water damage at roof edges was one of the most common and preventable failure modes in residential roofing. Georgia's climate amplifies the problem. Annual rainfall in metro Atlanta averages 50 inches. Afternoon thunderstorms from May through September can dump 2 or more inches in 30 minutes. That volume of water, running off a roof without drip edge, saturates fascia boards and rots them within a few years.

Drip edge serves four functions that the code writers considered essential:

• Water direction: The metal lip extends past the deck edge and breaks the capillary bond between water and the roof surface. Water drips straight down into the gutter instead of curling underneath.
• Fascia protection: By channeling water away from the fascia board, drip edge prevents the wood rot that leads to soffit damage, pest entry, and structural degradation at the eave line.
• Deck edge seal: Drip edge covers the exposed edge of the roof decking (plywood or OSB), preventing moisture absorption into the end grain of the panel. End grain absorbs water at 10 to 15 times the rate of face grain.
• Wind uplift resistance: At the eave, drip edge helps anchor the underlayment and starter shingle against wind uplift. Georgia's 115 mph design wind speed (per ASCE 7-16) makes edge fastening a structural concern, not just a water management detail. For more on wind requirements, see our wind speed requirements guide.

The code does not specify drip edge as optional or conditional. R905.2.8.5 uses the word "shall," which in code language means mandatory. This applies to every roof pitch, every shingle type, and every jurisdiction in Georgia that enforces the IRC.

Homeowners with roofs installed before 2012 may notice water staining on their fascia boards or paint peeling at the eave line. These are signs that the roof lacks drip edge and water has been wicking behind the shingle edge. A roof repair or replacement project presents the opportunity to correct this by installing code-compliant drip edge.

Drip Edge Installation Sequence: Eave vs. Rake

The IRC specifies a different installation sequence for drip edge at the eave versus the rake. Getting this sequence wrong is one of the most common code violations our team sees on roofs installed by other contractors. The sequence matters because it determines where water goes when it reaches the edge of the roof.

At the Eave (Bottom Edge)

The installation order at the eave is:

1. Install drip edge flush with the fascia board, extending the metal lip into the gutter. Fasten the drip edge to the roof deck with roofing nails spaced 8 to 10 inches apart.
2. Lay the underlayment (felt paper or synthetic) over the drip edge, overlapping the metal by at least 2 inches.
3. Install the starter strip and shingles over the underlayment.

This sequence places the underlayment on top of the drip edge at the eave. Water that penetrates the shingles hits the underlayment, runs down the slope, crosses over the top of the drip edge, and drops into the gutter. The water never reaches the roof deck or the fascia.

At the Rake (Side Edge)

The installation order at the rake reverses:

1. Install the underlayment first, extending it to the edge of the roof deck.
2. Install the drip edge over the underlayment, with the metal lip extending past the deck edge. Fasten with nails spaced 8 to 10 inches apart.
3. Install shingles over both the underlayment and the drip edge.

At the rake, the drip edge sits on top of the underlayment. Wind-driven rain that reaches the rake edge hits the drip edge first and runs down its face rather than getting under the underlayment. If the drip edge were installed under the underlayment at the rake (the same way as the eave), wind-driven rain could push water between the drip edge and the underlayment and onto the deck.

Corner Overlap Details

Where the eave drip edge meets the rake drip edge at the lower corner of the roof, the rake piece overlaps the eave piece by at least 2 inches. This overlap directs water from the rake onto the eave drip edge and into the gutter. Contractors cut a small notch in the rake drip edge flange to allow a clean overlap without buckling. Some manufacturers provide pre-formed corner pieces, though most installations use field-cut overlaps.

At the ridge, the rake drip edge terminates at the ridge line. No drip edge is installed along the ridge itself. Ridge ventilation components (see our ventilation code guide) handle the ridge line.

Location	Drip Edge Position	Underlayment Position	Why This Sequence
Eave (bottom)	Under underlayment	Over drip edge	Water runs down underlayment, over drip edge, into gutter
Rake (side)	Over underlayment	Under drip edge	Wind-driven rain hits metal first, cannot reach deck
Corner (eave-rake junction)	Rake overlaps eave 2"	Continuous under both	Directs corner water onto eave drip edge and into gutter

Drip Edge Material Specifications for Georgia

The IRC references ASTM D5765, "Standard Specification for Non-Metallic Drip Edge," but the vast majority of drip edge installed in metro Atlanta is metal. The code requires that the material be corrosion-resistant, which in practice means galvanized steel, aluminum, or copper. Each has advantages and trade-offs for Georgia's climate.

Galvanized Steel

The most common drip edge material in residential roofing across metro Atlanta. Galvanized steel drip edge uses a zinc coating (G90 specification minimum) to resist corrosion. At 26-gauge thickness (0.0187 inches), it provides sufficient rigidity to maintain its profile over the life of the roof. Cost is the lowest of the three metal options. Galvanized steel performs well in Georgia's humid subtropical climate, though the zinc coating will degrade over 20 to 30 years. This lifespan aligns with the typical asphalt shingle replacement cycle, so the drip edge gets replaced along with the shingles.

Aluminum

Aluminum drip edge offers superior corrosion resistance compared to galvanized steel. The minimum thickness specified for equivalent performance is 0.019 inches. Aluminum does not rust, making it the preferred choice in areas with salt exposure (coastal Georgia) or persistent moisture contact. In metro Atlanta, aluminum is the upgrade option for homeowners who want longer material life. It costs 30 to 50 percent more than galvanized steel and is available in a wider range of factory-applied colors.

Copper

Copper drip edge is a premium specification used on high-end homes in Buckhead, Johns Creek, and Sandy Springs. It develops a natural patina (verdigris) over time and has a functional lifespan of 50 years or more. Copper costs three to five times as much as galvanized steel. On homes with copper gutters, copper flashing, or architectural copper accents, matching drip edge maintains visual consistency. Our team installs copper drip edge on projects where the homeowner's material palette calls for it.

Drip Edge Profiles

Drip edge comes in several standard profiles, designated by letter:

• Type C (L-shaped): The simplest profile. One leg sits on the deck, the other hangs over the edge. Minimum code compliance, but offers no return lip to direct water away from the fascia. Acceptable under code but inferior to Type D or F in performance.
• Type D (T-shaped): Adds a bottom flange that kicks water away from the fascia. The T-profile creates an air gap between the drip edge and the fascia board, preventing contact moisture. This is the most common profile used in metro Atlanta.
• Type F (extended): A wider face profile designed for use with existing gutters or for applications where the fascia board is wider than standard. Type F provides more coverage and a more finished appearance.

All three profiles meet the IRC requirement. The choice between them depends on the gutter system, fascia dimensions, and the homeowner's preference. Our drip edge installation guide covers profile selection in greater detail.

Material	Thickness	Corrosion Resistance	Lifespan	Relative Cost
Galvanized Steel (G90)	26-gauge (0.019")	Good (zinc coating)	20-30 years	$
Aluminum	0.019" minimum	Excellent (no rust)	30-40 years	$$
Copper	16 oz. (0.022")	Superior (natural patina)	50+ years	$$$$$

Common Drip Edge Code Violations Inspectors Catch

Building inspectors in metro Atlanta check drip edge installation during every final roofing inspection. The inspection takes minutes, and the violations are visible without removing any shingles. Here are the failures our team sees most often when called to correct work performed by other contractors.

1. Missing Drip Edge at the Rake

The single most common violation. Some contractors install drip edge at the eave (where it feeds into the gutter) but skip the rake entirely. The code requires drip edge at both locations. Inspectors in Gwinnett County and Fulton County flag this consistently. The fix requires lifting the shingles along the rake, installing the drip edge in the correct position (over the underlayment), and re-sealing the shingle edge. On a typical home, this takes two to four hours and costs the homeowner money that should have been included in the original installation.

2. Reversed Installation Sequence

Drip edge installed over the underlayment at the eave, or under the underlayment at the rake. Both are violations. The reversed eave sequence allows water to run behind the drip edge and onto the fascia. The reversed rake sequence allows wind-driven rain to reach the deck. Inspectors check this by lifting the edge of the underlayment at the eave to confirm the drip edge sits beneath it.

3. Insufficient Overlap

Drip edge pieces must overlap each other by at least 2 inches at joints. Joints with less than 2 inches of overlap create gaps where water can reach the deck edge. On long eave runs (common on the large homes in Alpharetta and Roswell), a roof may have six or more drip edge joints per side. Each one must meet the 2-inch minimum.

4. Incompatible Materials

Installing aluminum drip edge in direct contact with copper flashing (or vice versa) creates galvanic corrosion. The dissimilar metals react in the presence of moisture, accelerating deterioration at the contact point. Inspectors with experience check for this, and it violates the code's corrosion-resistance requirement. Contractors must use separation strips or matching metals at contact points.

5. Improper Fastening

Drip edge fastened with staples instead of roofing nails, or nails spaced more than 12 inches apart. Staples do not provide adequate wind uplift resistance. The IRC requires mechanical fastening that resists the design wind load. In metro Atlanta's 115 mph wind zone, nail spacing at 8 to 10 inches on center is standard practice. Our wind speed requirements page covers the wind load calculations that drive fastener spacing decisions.

6. No Drip Edge Extension Past Deck

The drip edge must extend a minimum of 0.25 inches beyond the underlying roof deck. This extension creates the drip point that breaks the water's surface tension and directs it downward. Drip edge installed flush with the deck edge fails to create this break, and water curls under the edge through capillary action. Inspectors verify this by sighting along the eave line from below.

"IRC R905.2.8.5 requires drip edge at eaves and rakes on all asphalt shingle roofs. Georgia inspectors check extension distance, fastener spacing, and eave-to-rake overlap at every final inspection."

How 1 Source Handles Drip Edge on Every Project

We include drip edge on every roof replacement and roof repair that involves the roof edge. This is not an add-on. It is not a line item that can be removed to lower the bid. It is part of the installation because the code requires it and because it protects the home.

Our standard specification calls for Type D (T-profile) galvanized steel drip edge at a minimum. On homes in Buckhead, Johns Creek, and other premium neighborhoods, we offer aluminum and copper upgrades. The material choice goes on the proposal before work begins, and the homeowner knows what is being installed and why.

Our Installation Process

Every drip edge installation follows the same sequence, on every project, regardless of crew:

1. Old drip edge removal: During tear-off, the crew removes existing drip edge along with the old shingles and underlayment. We never install new drip edge over old.
2. Fascia inspection: With the drip edge removed, the crew inspects the fascia board for rot, water damage, or pest damage. Rotted fascia gets replaced before new drip edge goes on. This step is impossible on contractors who overlay new shingles without tear-off.
3. Eave drip edge first: New drip edge goes on the eave, fastened with galvanized roofing nails at 8-inch spacing. The metal extends past the deck edge into the gutter trough.
4. Underlayment over eave drip edge: The synthetic underlayment lays over the eave drip edge with a minimum 2-inch overlap onto the metal.
5. Rake drip edge over underlayment: Drip edge goes on the rake after the underlayment is in place. The rake pieces overlap the eave pieces at the corners by 2 inches.
6. Starter strip and shingles: The starter strip and field shingles go over the drip edge and underlayment assembly.

This six-step sequence matches the IRC requirement, the GAF installation specifications, and the CertainTeed installation specifications. All three sources agree on the sequence because the physics of water management at the roof edge do not change between code editions or manufacturer brands.

Warranty Implications

Both GAF and CertainTeed require proper drip edge installation for their system warranty programs. A GAF Golden Pledge or Silver Pledge warranty covers the full roofing system, including drip edge. If the drip edge is missing or installed wrong, the manufacturer can void the system warranty. The same applies to CertainTeed's SureStart Plus coverage. Our certification with both manufacturers means we install drip edge to their specifications on every job, and the warranty documentation reflects it.

For homeowners considering a roof replacement, the drip edge is a small component that carries outsized importance. It costs a fraction of the total project. It prevents thousands of dollars in fascia and soffit damage over the life of the roof. The code requires it. The manufacturers require it. And we install it on every project because cutting it would compromise the system we guarantee.

Related Georgia Roofing Code Requirements

Drip edge does not exist in isolation. It connects to several other code-mandated components of the roofing system. Understanding these connections helps you evaluate whether a contractor's proposal covers the full scope of code-compliant work.

Underlayment (R905.1.1)

The drip edge installation sequence depends on the underlayment. The code requires an approved underlayment (meeting ASTM D226, D4869, or D6757) over the entire roof deck before shingle application. The relationship between drip edge and underlayment at eave vs. rake is the core of the installation sequence described above. For complete underlayment requirements, see our underlayment and ice dam protection guide.

Flashing (R903.2)

Where drip edge meets flashing at wall-to-roof intersections or chimney bases, the two components must integrate without creating a gap. The flashing standards for step flashing and counter flashing at chimneys (chimney flashing guide) specify how metal components overlap to maintain continuous water protection. A gap between the drip edge termination and the first piece of step flashing creates a leak point.

Ventilation (R806)

Eave drip edge must not obstruct soffit ventilation intake. Georgia requires 1 square foot of net free ventilation area per 150 square feet of attic floor area (or 1:300 with certain configurations). The drip edge terminates at the fascia, and the soffit vent sits behind and below the fascia. Proper installation keeps these two systems separate. Our ventilation code guide covers the full ventilation calculation and its relationship to eave construction.

Roof Slope (R905.2.2)

The minimum slope for asphalt shingles under the IRC is 2:12 (a 2-inch rise per 12 inches of horizontal run). At low slopes, water moves more slowly across the roof surface, increasing the importance of proper drip edge installation at the eave. On steep-slope roofs (8:12 and above), common in Buckhead and Johns Creek luxury homes, water velocity is higher and the drip edge's kick-out function becomes even more critical for protecting the fascia. See our roof slope requirements page for complete slope and underlayment calculations.

Reroofing (R907)

During a reroofing project, existing drip edge must be evaluated. If the drip edge is corroded, bent, or does not meet current code specifications, the contractor must replace it. On full tear-off projects, new drip edge is standard. On overlay projects (where current code permits a second layer), the existing drip edge typically remains in place if it is in serviceable condition and meets the current code's material and dimension requirements.

Explore More Georgia Roofing Code Guides

• Georgia Residential Roofing Code Guide
• Georgia Reroofing and Tear-Off Code
• Wind Speed Requirements for Georgia Roofing
• Roof Ventilation Code Requirements
• Minimum Roof Slope Requirements
• Drip Edge Installation Technical Guide
• Flashing Standards Technical Guide
• Underlayment and Ice Dam Protection
• Roof Flashing Installation in Atlanta
• Chimney Flashing Installation
• Roof Replacement Services
• Roof Repair Services